Gas oven will not light
The igniter, almost always. It has to draw enough current, not just glow.
An oven that will not heat, or heats nothing like the temperature on the display, is a repair worth doing properly. I am Ramez, owner of R3M Appliance Repair, and I work on gas and electric ovens and ranges across Forney. On gas it is usually the igniter; on electric it is usually the bake element or the temperature sensor.
On a gas oven, the igniter has to draw enough current to glow hot enough to open the gas safety valve. As it ages it weakens: it still glows, so it looks fine, but it no longer pulls enough current and the valve never opens. That is why a gas oven can look like it is trying and still stay cold, and why an igniter that glows is not proof it is good.
On an electric oven, a bake element that has burned through often shows a visible break or a blister. An oven that heats but bakes unevenly or reads wrong is more often the temperature sensor than the element. Those are different parts and different prices, so it is worth testing rather than guessing.
The igniter, almost always. It has to draw enough current, not just glow.
Bake element or broil element. A break or blister is often visible.
Temperature sensor, or a calibration that has drifted.
Usually a dirty or wet igniter, or debris around the burner cap.
Element, the receptacle it plugs into, or the infinite switch.
Door gasket or hinges. It wastes heat and throws the temperature off.
GE and GE Profile ranges usually have an igniter issue when a burner will not light. Whirlpool, Samsung, LG, Frigidaire, KitchenAid, Maytag and Bosch too. I also work on Wolf, Viking, Thermador and Jenn-Air as an independent technician, not a factory-authorized dealer.
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That is the classic weak igniter. As it ages it still glows but stops drawing enough current to open the gas valve, so the oven stays cold. A glowing igniter is not proof that it is good, which is why I test current rather than look at it.
An igniter or bake element is usually done in a single visit once I have the right part. Tell me the brand and model when you call and I can often bring it with me.
Yes, gas and electric both, free-standing and slide-in, across Forney, Heartland, Talty and the neighborhoods along FM 548 and US 80.
It is. That is usually the temperature sensor or a calibration that has drifted, and both are straightforward. It is also the kind of thing people live with for years while every recipe comes out wrong.
Yes. I service Wolf, Viking, Thermador and Jenn-Air, and I want to be clear that I am an independent technician, not a factory-authorized dealer for those brands. If a repair needs to go through the manufacturer, I will tell you.
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